Check it out....read it all...:



http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Yep... I've read this a long time ago, agree with it, and its how I break in my motors now.

I made the mistake of breaking in my M109 per the mfgs instructions... and the results were an improper ring seal..

Here are the pistons with 33,000 miles on them with a per mfg break in... (I just took this down this month to do some performance work on it.)

Here you can see that the Cylinders still have the cross hatch pattern in them.... There is no wear on these Cylinders...

[quote="JUtah"]Yep... I've read this a long time ago, agree with it, and its how I break in my motors now.

I made the mistake of breaking in my M109 per the mfgs instructions... and the results were an improper ring seal..

Here are the pistons with 33,000 miles on them with a per mfg break in... (I just took this down this month to do some performance work on it.)

HOLY S@#T !!!!!! SO ALL THAT IS TRUE???????

Great pics. !!!!!!!

Where in Mississauga are you???
I travel up there several times a year on Bzness. In fact I was just up there in Early December 08.

I have been breaking aircraft engines in very simular for the last 20 years. I break in all my piston engines the same too. With the excpetion that I aslo use hi RPM with no load conditions. I load the rings with heat at lower rpms then unload at much longer hi rpms. Depending on the engine this hi-rpm loading may be 70- 100% of the rated Red line rpm with resistence such driving, flying, dyno or boating.

My b-king never came out of 4th gear the first 300 miles. I have always achived exception break in results to multiple piston type engines. Don't low rpm lug your engine until the rings are seated. generally this happens fairly quick, between 1- 10 hours. The rest of the engine components may still continue to break after the rings set. Smoothness with regards to power changes should also be exercised. Try not to idle too much before the break in.

I broke in my King according to Motomans controversial method.
Changed my oil 3 times before 1000k`s (625 miles) 1st oil change was before 50 miles.
Revved up to redline and very rarely used fifth gear and first now after 1000 miles I start to use 6th gear.
Lot of decelerations as well.
Hard to tell if it is any better but it does not seem to be any worse and when you go for test rides the sales people are more than happy if you "try" their bikes properly, even if they are brand new which does tell something.
At least the break-in period was fun compared to all other new bikes that I broke in according to the manual.

This is why I bought a demo, everyone just gives it shit, it was broke proper!
jutah, great to see some realtime pics from the board.

Ok opinions are like stink holes, first I really believe that the clutch will break-in long before the rings seat, or cylinders fine hone. I change my first oil & filter 200-300 miles; I want to seat the rings and range the gears without fiction brake material rich oil, & blow-by gasoline. Break it in like, YOU OWN IT, NOT STOLE IT. Break more with down shifting 300-1200 miles my second oil & filter change.

I guess I will be the odd ball out here, I ALWAYS break my new bikes in as the manufacture recommends, never,ever had a motor problem with any bike I have owned. The way I look at it is Suzuki knows more then I do about there motor.


I do change oil at 100,600,3000, then every 3000 after that

33000 miles = 55000 kms which is alot of distance. How did your plugs look during your tune-ups? Were they looking like your mixture was lean?

I am for going with manufacturer recommendations. Especially if it is a new bike. I feel they used evidence and data to arrive at their recommendations so their customers have the best experience. Why would they tell us an inferior way to break in the engine?

I also use the recommended oil. Nothing aftermarket. I am not sure what happened to the m109 but looks like you got a lot of miles from it. Was it 100% stock or were you running different exhaust? Potentially running lean and therefor hot??

Just my opinion.

To answer your questions, that bike is FAR from stock... Custom intake, Custom exhaust, Several Custom Tunes, Custom 40 Shot Nitrous -- sprayed occasionally (Wet System jetted with a 10:1 A/F)


That bike has had considerable time tuning and tweaking, plugs always look good and the AF has always been spot on where I want it, which is just a tad on the rich side... (I run it 12.8:1 which is where it makes the best power, and have it set at 13.4:1 in the cruise range... Stock it was around 14.5 to 1 in the cruise range.

Oil Changed religiously long before due (Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 after broken in)

All of the bearings look great, the motor is actually in VERY good shape in terms of wear, especially given that I ride it fairly hard and it has 33,000 miles on it.

Only problem in the Engine is the rings, and again I would NEVER have known without taking it apart to work on the transmission.

Just to clarify... I didn't take the bike apart because it wasn't running, or was running poorly... It ran great.
I wanted to get the transmission back cut to get rid of the M109's notoriously ***tty shift to second and had to split the cases to get the tranny back cut.

Also... just in case you guys didn't know... all the black on top of the pistons is Carbon build up, which is just an accumulation over time with miles... Not a sign of thermal stress.

Here it is all put together.

arek1200 wrote:

JUtah wrote: Where in Mississauga are you??? I travel up there several times a year on Bzness. In fact I was just up there in Early December 08. Winston Churchill / 401...

I am typically around 401 and Mavis. I actually like it quite a bit up there, but you can have the winters!