Thought I would make it without hitch on this thing but the record was tarnished today. I have been having shifting issues for some time now, thing would not seem to hitch into 2nd at slow speeds or hang in neutral going into 2nd. Initially I passed it off as new transmission but after going over 1000 miles today I decided to look a little closer into it. 1st thing I notice was my whole shifter assembly was wobbly side to side at the big allen nut joint. So I looked in the service manual for info such as assembly and torque spec's. I put my 3/8" ratchet with allen bit on it too loosen it up since I decided to just remove it and grease the assembly starting fresh. Well 1st thing I noticed was it was not tight but mushy feeling, cross threaded came to mind instantly. sure enough as the bolt came out so did the damn aluminum threads from the cheap POS rearset. So only answer to this is it was cross threaded on assembly at the factory. What ever this put my King down until I can get to the dealer to report this. They are not open on monday's so it will be tuesday. I have the rearset off the bike and the damaged threads in a zip loc baggy. He most lilkely won't give me any grief over it and simply order a new rearset. I found it interesting Suzuki spec's 29 ft. lbs on this bolt into aluminum. Honestly I don't see that happening. My Bandit has the same bolt into steel and I can see that happening but not aluminum.

Might want to check yours if your having shifting issues but I for warn you enter at your own risk as this seems to be a cheap ass part half ass'd together at the factory.

When I received my bike from the dealer and got it home I noticed the screw that holds the left side tank guard was not all the way in. I got out a allen wrench and attempted to tighten it up but it would not go in any further. Some idiot at the factory or dealership cross threaded it so I feel your pain. And there is no way 29 ft lbs. sounds right into aluminum, hope you get it worked out.

Sorry to here about the defect.
I was looking at the shop manual after reading about the torque you mentioned, but didn't find anything specific to that bolt. 29ft.lb.s sounds like twice the amount of torque I would think that bolt going into aluminum would have.
Hope you get riding again soon.

The torque spec is only listed in one spot on a diagram in section 5 of the service manual. I was suspect to it after seeing what the bolt looked like when removed it. I cross checked on my Bandit 1250 manual and it is the same 29 ft. lbs but it threads inot steel. I had the 1250 one off whe nI raised my shifter angle and no problems with it and it took the 29 easily. When I re-instll the new rearset I will go 16~18 ft. lbs with blue loctite as insurance. The 3 rearset bolts are 16.5 each, granted they are a bit smaller in dia. than the pivot shaft bolt and they do thread inot the frame. Even one of those was slighty buggered on mine. I was able to clean it out with a little patience.

I just want to let those that are planning on removing the gear shifter to grease the pivot shaft DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TORQUE THE BOLT TO THE VALUE IN THE SERVICE MANUAL. The manual is clearly wrong with a 29 ft. lbs into butter soft aluminum threads. I just put my new replacement on and there is no way it will take that value. I left it at roughly 18~20 ft. lbs and that is plenty tight, anymore and it will strip the hole if it's not already stripped from the factory as mine was.

Wow, great info to know if I ever take the shifter off.